The “money piece” has become one of the most recognizable requests in the salon. But while color around the face makes an impact, the haircut itself plays an even bigger role in how features are highlighted or softened. True face-framing isn’t just about bright streaks of blonde—it’s about shaping hair to harmonize with bone structure, profile, and proportions.
1. Start With the Structure, Not the Trend
Every client’s face has unique anchor points: cheekbones, jawline, chin, forehead, and neckline. A haircut that works with these natural lines automatically enhances the client’s features. For example:
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Longer face shapes: Softer, rounded layers that break up vertical length.
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Rounder face shapes: Angled or diagonal framing to create elongation.
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Strong jawlines: Curved or beveled edges to soften angularity.
2. Layering as a Sculpting Tool
Where layers begin makes all the difference:
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Starting at cheekbones: Emphasizes lift and brightness through the mid-face.
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Starting at the jawline: Creates contouring that slims or balances width.
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Long, low face frames: Keep weight below the chin for clients who want elongation.
Think of layers not as decoration but as structural design lines.
3. Movement and Density Considerations
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Fine hair: Over-framing can remove too much weight, leaving the face exposed and hair limp.
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Thick hair: Strategic carving is necessary so the frame sits smoothly rather than ballooning outward.
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Wavy/curly hair: Always cut dry or account for curl expansion—what frames on wet hair may shrink several inches once dry.
4. Integration With Color
When paired with color, framing becomes even more powerful. Subtle highlights placed within a cut’s layers can enhance dimension without the dramatic contrast of a money piece. This technique makes the style more timeless, especially for clients who prefer natural, blended looks.
5. Communicating With Clients
Clients may come in asking for the “money piece” when what they truly want is to look brighter, slimmer, or more balanced. Instead of defaulting to color, guide the conversation toward shape:
“We can definitely brighten you up, but let’s also adjust the cut around your face so it enhances your cheekbones and works with your bone structure. That way, the style looks flattering even on days you wear it natural.”
